Morro grabs them and puts them on. It was another hour to our destination, Domingodo, a dead-end village where we would spend the next three days making arrangements for our foray into the heart of the Darién Gap. On a 2014 trip to Acandí, an Urabeño-dominated town across the gulf from Turbo, Carlos had photographed the tomb of Roberto Tremble, a 33-year-old Cuban murdered by smugglers.Cubans still accounted for most of the migrants, Montero said.
The concoction tastes vaguely of yerba mate and provides a jolt of energy and focus that will help me navigate the endless hills and switchbacks, mud-slick ravines, and root systems that obstruct our path. The Darién Gap is a break in the Pan-American Highway consisting of a large swath of undeveloped swampland and forest within Panama's Darién Province in Central America and the northern portion of Colombia's Chocó Department in South America.

Now they could openly buy boat tickets to Capurganá and Sapzurro. Darien Gap STRADDLING THE BORDER of the republics of PANAMA and COLOMBIA, the Darien Gap is home to one of the least exploited and most diverse ecosystems in the world. The most powerful is the Clan Úsuga, a.k.a. If all went well, Mohammad could be in the U.S. by now.The Darién Gap in Panama is such dense jungle that the only sensible way through is by boat, and in the morning we climb into a piragua for a ten-hour glide upriver. Five hours later, he was eating kabobs in Washington, D.C. When I ask Paya’s aging village chief, Enrique Martinez, how the community has fared since the paramilitary violence, he says that aside from some land-rights disputes with the state, the situation is peaceful.
“These people are capitalists, they make money from our misery,” Morro says later that day, as we head upriver in a sagging canoe. “Please take,” he groans, doubling his offer to $20.

When the migrants get here and leave the next day, that’s one thing. With FARC slated to begin disarming in the coming months, this was a timely opportunity to discuss the tricky business of peace. I can’t read their expressions in the darkness, but their intensity is palpable. We’ve come to find the most improbable travelers imaginable: migrants who, by choice, are passing through the Darién region from all over the world, in a round-about bid to reach the United States and secure refugee status.As traditional pathways to the U.S. become more difficult, Cubans, Somalis, Syrians, Bangladeshis, Nepalis, and many more have been heading to South American countries and traveling north, moving overland up the Central American isthmus. So he turned his sights to the U.S. and bused to Turbo. An impromptu tribunal has convened to decide the man’s fate, and most of Bijao is in attendance. The jungle trail, I realize, is one big alimentary canal that breaks down everything that passes through. Zia applied twice for a visa to follow him, without luck. I send e-mails to Zia, the Afghan from the Turbo docks, and Ebrima—the two legible contacts in my notebook. Arafat’s friend Jafar leans back and laughs behind a pair of knockoff gold Ray-Bans. Retracing the route we just completed seems impossible at that moment. Their willpower is amazing, but the Gap’s shadowy depths have swallowed travelers far more prepared. I wonder, have the guides stolen our bags? “Fucking hell,” says Ebrima, the taller one, when I ask about the trip. Evelyn is the worst off, her swollen toes protruding from socks torn to shreds, lips quivering in sweat. Carlos struggles to keep up. I can’t go back to where I’m from.” Meanwhile our shifty guides John and Alberto are anxious to head back home to Bijao. “Yeah, man!” he says. A hairdresser from a restive corner of northwest Cameroon, Evelyn left home as radical militants, expelled from Nigeria, threatened to overrun her village. The guerrillas are overnighting in Bijao, which is unusual. We are fed pasta and coffee and escorted across the Paya to its namesake hamlet. (Our porters from Bijao, John and Alberto, are taking a well-paid gamble crossing the border anywhere near migrants, because this carries a minimum five-year prison sentence.) Peru. Another boy who was captured was tied to a tree and made to watch the gruesome spectacle; he still lives in Bijao, left incoherent by mental problems.It’s a swelteringly hot morning, and Elices walks me to the homemade memorial by the river. A Brazil visa and a flight to São Paulo were arranged, with a stopover in Doha, Qatar. I race to catch up but don’t see a trace. For the first time in my life, I’m relieved to face the barrel of a gun. Seizing control of lucrative routes along the Caribbean coast, Los Urabeños has used its links with Mexico’s Sinaloa cartel to expand its presence around the country and challenge FARC in parts of Chocó.When migrants began turning up near the border, both groups started using well-worn drug-smuggling routes to move human traffic for money. For all my good intentions, I’m still a Western journalist getting paid to do this.


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